Marsala Girl Power Cut & Sew Photo Frame Pattern Fabric

fabric

To buy this, make sure to get the fat quarter for one frame & pin pattern, or buy the yard, but make sure to buy the combed cotton, to maximize and get the frame and pin patterns in the correct size fit.

You should get 4 full frame and pin patterns, and 2 halfs of the top frame pattern, each with the front of the frame and 2 inside panels, and you can trace over the pattern panels using clear sheet protector or clear vinyl to trace over the pattern lines.
This fabric is a fat quarter, with "Curvy Plaid", feminine, abstract, folk art like art by me, Kristie Hubler, with patterns laid out to cut and sew, and you can make washable picture frame for a 4x6" photo and a washable brooch pin, both with removable parts! The color is a mono-toned version of Pantone's 2015 color of the year, Marsala! The frame has a pocket in the front for the photo and it's protective sleeve, which is a cut up, acid free, sheet protector page, cut to the size of the photo, it has pockets on the back for removable mat board or cardboard easel back and strut leg boards, button holes for hanging using your machine's zigzag stitch function, stitch length 1, stitch width between 3 and 5, and ribbon connects the bottom right of the strut leg pocket to the easel back panel, tucked inside the layers. The brooch is 4 fabric panels, 2 for the finished front panel, 2 for the finished back panel, the back panels have holes, cut out using pointy, small, embroidery scissors - those holes when joined hold the 2 mechanism ends of the removable metal pin back in place. When the 2 finished panels are sewn on 3 sides, leaving an opening on either of the longer sides, it makes a pocket for the slide out metal brooch pin back - this jewelry project is so quick to make, and super easy! The frame has 10 fabric panels, 2 frame front border panels, 2 frame middle panels, 2 easel back panels, plus 4 strut leg panels. They are backed with Ultrahold by Thermoweb. Here the frame legend: FFB: frame front border - front FFB, 2nd Inside FFB, labeled on fabric FM: frame middle - 2 panels make this - the 2nd inside FFB is sewn to one side of the FM, making a pocket for the photo and it's sleeve, on the other side of the FM, the easel back's outer edge is sewn to it. EB: easel back - the strut pocket is joined at it's top to the design side of the EB, along with the ribbon, tucked between the bottom right of the EB and FM panels STRUT: the strut leg is the thing that pitches out, and allows the frame to stand on a table or shelf Instructions are printed ON the fabric, as well as in this description below. EXTRA SUPPLIED NEEDED: Thermoweb Ultrahold: 7/8 yard or 28" x 17", leaving 1/2" across top and bottom with no Ultrahold on fabric 9" long by 7/8" or 1" wide ribbon, grosgrain or satin 7x6" mat board or cardboard - pattern for strut leg board on fabric, cut EB board 4x6" coordinating roll of thread - I recommend Toldi Lock by Gutermann, or 2 small rolls of Gutermann acid free, clear, sheet protector page for photo sleeve, cut to size of 4x6" 1 3/4" metal bar pin back, sold in packs of 10, 44, 48 - under $4 per pack - $under $0.10 per pin back TOOLS NEEDED: small, pointy, embroidery scissors - I recommend Gingher- I bought mine for under $6 at Michaels fabric scissors paper scissors for cutting Thermoweb, as well as mat board or cardboard - you can use a utility knife sewing machine extra denim weight needles straight pins 3 hot glue sticks low temp glue gun iron protective surface OPTIONAL: self healing mat fabric rotary cutter quality craft store hole puncher, although the fabric is thicker, so I'd use the embroidery scissors Easy to wash - after making the frame and brooch, you take their removable parts out. Then place them in a lingerie bag, and wash them on the cold, delicate cycle with mild detergent, no fabric softener. Then you can lay them on a towel to dry. You can place them in the dryer but do it on the lowest heat setting, and for only 15 minutes or so. I say that, because one of the main things backing each fabric panel is Thermoweb, Heat n Bond, Ultrahold (you can use their Lite version) - it is a fabric adhesive, fusible web, with a peel back paper backing, glue side is ironed onto the back of the fabric fat quarter - you can piecemeal this onto the back, and iron it on - just get a cut of 7/8 yard or 28" of Ultrahold - you can cut it up, to just cover the main panels - it comes on a 5 yard roll 17" wide, and the fat quarter is 18" high top to bottom, so you'd need to piece a 1" x 28" strip across the bottom The Ultrahold is acid free, perfect for picture frames, and if you get the combed cotton, that's natural, the ink is pigment based, so your structure will be mostly acid free. The Heat n Bond gives structure to the frame, allows the 90 degree corners to be sharp, edges straight, and the Ultrahold allows for the frame to stand up on a table or shelf, it keeps the fabric parts from puckering. This is all also true for the brooch. Instructions: Well, it's pretty easy. You will gently cut out all of the fabric panel part patterns, cutting around the outer edge of all 1/2" or 1/4" seam allowances - those are those thick lines around the main design fabric panels 1/2" or 1/4" thick all around. You will see thin lines on a 45 degree angle at the corners of the seam allowances, that I drew for you, on the 6 main rectangle frame panels, the 4 brooch panels, and the 5 corners of each of the strut leg panels. I drew them strategically placed for you to easily cut away the corners. You will then fold under all of the flaps, the seam allowances, along the edges, burnishing the edges with your fingernail - because the Thermoweb is on both the main pattern panel and it's seam allowances, burnishing the flaps under the main panels allows for them to "stick" together better, when you go to sew around the outer edges of ALL individual fabric panel parts, 1/16" in from the outer edge. After all of the panels have their corners cut away, their SA's folded under, and ALL panel parts are individually sewn around their outer edges, it's time to assemble the panel parts. As in the case of the 2 FFBs, you will also cut out the center along the outer SA edge provided, and cut into the picture window (PW) corners with your embroidery scissors, along the lines on the panel, fold under the SAs, sew along the outer edge of the PW, 1/16" in from it's outer edge. On the 2nd inside FFB, follow the light line, in the shape of a "U" with an arrow to the top left, and sew OVER that line. That stitch line transfers to the back, and when it's back is joined to the front FFB, you will use that 2nd inside FFB's back side's stitch line, to sew that stitch line to the finished FM panel. See below. You will place the 2nd inside FFB design print side face down, place and align the front art design FFB face up over it, aligning both inner PW and outer edges, and sew the 2 FFBs PW edges together, follow the stitch line on the top FFB PW . Put those 2 joined panels aside. Sew the 2 FM panels together, 1/16" from the outer edge, put that aside. Sew the 2 EB panels together, put that aside. Place the one end of the ribbon, 1 or so inches in from the bottom of the strut leg panel, on top of the inside facing back panel that goes under the front strut leg panel. Place the front art strut leg panel on top of it. Sew the front design panel and back panel, marked on the fabric as the back panel to the front art strut panel, together. This secures the ribbon inside. Make sure that no ribbon shows on the right vertical side of the front finished panel, that you just had sewn together. Do the same for the remaining 2 back strut leg panels. Now, sew the finished front strut leg panel on top of the finished strut leg back panel, BUT only sew 4 of the sides toghether, leaving the longest, left angled side OPEN, for the slide out strut leg board. This makes the strut leg pocket. Align the patterns of the finished easel back panel and the strut leg pocket, make sure the design on the fabric panels match up, or align. Then sew along the top of the strut leg pocket to the EB panel - use straight pins to hold in place, to help you if you need it. Back stitch at both ends of the top of the strut leg pocket. The other end of the ribbon is still hanging out. Place the FM panel under the joined FFBs, joined at the PW edge area, push 3 pins on the right, bottom, and left sides, holding the FFBs to the FM panels together. Fold BACK the right side of the TOP FFB panel, and follow the stitch line "track", and sew down to the corner, turn the piece, sew down what is the "bottom" line, turn the piece, and sew down what is the "left" side, back stitching at beginning and end. Now, push under the FM panel, and sew ONLY the top edges of the 2 FFBs together. You can also sew the remaining 3 outer sides together - just make sure that you leave that opening on the top for the photo and sleeve! Now, you can finish the frame, by joining the FFBs & FM panels sewn together, to the EB and strut leg pocket, sewn together, pin if necessary. Just sew down the right side, STOP, leave an opening for the other ribbon end to go it, about 1", remove piece, sew the left sides together, sew down to the bottom, STOP. Make sure you back stitch at beginnings and end. For sewing the bottom, sew from the left bottom edge down to that 1" space area, 1" from the right corner's edge, and stop. Back stitch. Now, here you can tuck in the remaining ribbon. What I do at this point, though, is stand the frame up, to determine how much ribbon is needed to pitch the frame's strut leg pocket out, so I bring the ribbon out and under, so that it rests UNDER the bottom of the frame, with the ribbon tail out in front. Where the frame stands well on it's own, mark on either side of the frame's bottom with pins, on the ribbon, and cut the ribbon tail, leaving 1-2" to tuck into that pocket at the bottom, between the EB and FM panels. Tuck the ribbon in the pocket until it reaches the inner most pin, remove the pins (you can use them to hold the ribbon in place, in the pocket there), and either hot glue on either sides of the ribbon INSIDE the pocket near the opening OR, if you can, you can sew the little pocket opening shut, securing the ribbon. Finished! For the brooch, follow how I did the frame panels, and when you have sewn each of the 4 brooch panels individually, and cut out the holes on the 2 back panels, poking into the center of the holes with the embroidery scissors, cutting out to the outer edge of the circle holes, cutting out the holes, join the 2 brooch fronts together (labeled), sew them together around all 4 sides, do the same for the 2 back panels, the join the finished front panel to the finished back panel, only sewing 3 sides together, leaving an opening for the slide out metal brooch pin back. Back stitch at beginning and end. And you are finished! You can read my blog with photo and text step by step instructions, for making the brooch and frame at: http://fabricatedframes.blogspot.com/2015/02/creating-washable-photo-frame-with.html & http://fabricatedframes.blogspot.com/2015/02/create-washable-fashion-brooch-pin-with.html and you can follow my video tutorial blogs for making the frame and brooch at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoPbDjn8RKM for frame video tutorial & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B93fjjMaYJY for brooch video tutorial Thank you for being interested in this fabric, and it's projects! I really appreciate it! inventor / pattern maker / artist Kristie Hubler owner of fabricatedframes.com sewing pattern downloads, with art formatted to print onto washable, inkjet printer fabric sheets, at http://teacherspayteachers.com/store/fabricated-frames. My blog tutorials are also on http://kristiehublerartistproductdesignerwithfabric.wordpress.com for making these frames and brooches, with photo and text step by step instructions!

Art & frame structure pattern are copyright protected by Kristie Hubler. All Rights Reserved. Not for resale. For personal use only. If interested in licensing, or to buy wholesale to resell, please contact Kristie at fabricatedframescom@gmail.com

Thank you!
Kristie Hubler
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